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Why is 18 carat gold favored in French jewelry?


Gold has fascinated humanity for millennia. A symbol of wealth, power, and beauty, it now stands at the heart of French high jewelry. But how can you recognize an 18 carat gold jewel? In an era of imitations and limited transparency, it is essential to know how to distinguish a true 18 carat gold piece, especially when investing in a jewel of lasting quality.

At Mazarin, all our creations are crafted exclusively in 18 carat recycled gold. Some are also set with diamonds, with a strong commitment to traceability and authenticity at the core of our jewelry philosophy.

The History of 18 Carat Gold in France

In France, jewelry tradition is closely linked to 18 carat gold. Adopted as a standard in the nineteenth century, it offers the perfect balance between the purity of gold and the strength of an alloy. Pure gold, or 24 carats, is too malleable for durable jewelry. Eighteen carat gold, composed of 75 percent pure gold, became the preferred choice for its resistance and the richness of its brilliance.

As early as the Middle Ages, French kings, including Louis IX, required the use of noble alloys for coins and royal ornaments. This commitment to quality has endured through the centuries and continues today in French jewelry workshops, where 18 carat gold remains the benchmark.

Mazarin follows this heritage. The Maison takes its name from Cardinal Jules Mazarin, a seventeenth century patron of the arts and refined collector. Advisor to kings and passionate about beauty, he assembled one of the first great diamond collections in Europe, known as the Mazarin diamonds. In the spirit of this demanding and refined vision, the Maison designs 18 carat recycled gold jewels that unite excellence, authenticity, and character.

The Advantages of 18 Carat Gold

Eighteen carat gold is widely favored in jewelry for its many qualities.

Durability. With a gold content of 75 percent, this alloy resists impact and daily wear better than purer gold.

Aesthetic versatility. It allows for a wide range of colors such as yellow gold, white gold, rose gold, red gold, and even grey gold, depending on the metals blended with it.

Lasting value. Eighteen carat gold maintains strong market value within the precious metals sector.

Compliance with French standards. In France, a jewel can only be legally described as gold if it is at least 18 carats.

Jewelry in Recycled Gold, Between Excellence and Awareness

At Mazarin, we have chosen to work exclusively with 18 carat recycled gold. But what is recycled gold? It is gold that has already been extracted from the earth, recovered from existing jewelry or other objects, then melted and refined to restore its original purity. It has exactly the same properties as newly mined gold.

This choice is not a compromise. It reflects our commitment to preserving natural resources while guaranteeing the authenticity, durability, and brilliance of each creation. Whether it is a recycled gold ring or a recycled gold wedding band, every piece tells a responsible story, crafted with precision and care.

Discover our collections online and explore jewelry designed to endure, where awareness meets excellence.

Understanding carats and their meaning


What Is a Carat?

When used in reference to gold, the term carat should not be confused with the carat of a diamond, which measures its weight. For gold, it indicates purity. Twenty four carats represent 100 percent pure gold, while eighteen carats correspond to 75 percent pure gold blended with other metals such as copper, silver, or palladium.

Differences Between 18 Carat Gold and Other Alloys

Among the different types of gold used in jewelry, not all are equal. Twenty four carat gold, although pure, is too soft for everyday wear. It is generally reserved for exceptional or collectible pieces.

Fourteen or ten carat gold, containing 58.5 percent and 41.7 percent pure gold respectively, are more affordable but also less noble in composition. Their brilliance is often less intense, and their use remains limited in France.

Nine carat gold contains more base metals than pure gold. Considered entry level, it does not meet the standards of quality we uphold.

At Mazarin, we have chosen to work exclusively with eighteen carat gold because it embodies what we seek in every jewel: the right balance between brilliance, strength, and value. A standard that remains true and endures over time.

Traditional methods for identifying an 18 carat gold jewel


Hallmarks of Guarantee

The most reliable way to recognize an 18 carat gold jewel is by its hallmark. In France, every gold jewel must bear two hallmarks.

The standard hallmark, typically represented by an eagle’s head, is the official symbol of 18 carat gold.

The maker’s mark, specific to each jeweler or jewelry house.

These marks, often discreet, are stamped by hand or engraved with a laser. They guarantee the purity of the metal and are subject to strict control by French customs authorities.

Color and Appearance

A trained eye can also identify an 18 carat gold jewel by its color.

Eighteen carat yellow gold has a warm and deep tone, neither overly bright nor dull.

Rose gold owes its hue to a higher proportion of copper in the alloy.

White gold, blended with palladium or nickel, is often rhodium plated to enhance its brilliance.

A jewel that appears excessively pale or overly dark, or whose color changes noticeably over time, may indicate a lower quality alloy.

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Modern expertise in identifying 18 carat gold


Conductivity Tests

Gold is an excellent electrical conductor. Today, portable devices can measure this property quickly and safely, without damaging the jewel. These tools are commonly used by experts and professional jewelers to verify the composition of a piece.

Spectrometry Devices

XRF spectrometry, or X ray fluorescence, makes it possible to determine the exact gold content of an object without altering it. This is the most precise method for confirming whether a jewel is made of 18 carat gold, especially when no visible hallmark is present.

The importance of certificates of authenticity and professional appraisals


What Should a Certificate of Authenticity Include?

A certificate of authenticity is an essential document, particularly when purchasing high value jewelry. It should specify:

The type of precious metal, in this case 18 carat recycled gold,

The gold content, meaning 75 percent pure gold,

Any gemstones present, including their type, cut, and carat weight,

The signature of the jeweler or certified expert.

When Should You Consult an Expert?

If you have any doubt about the authenticity of a gold jewel, or if you wish to appraise an inherited piece, it is advisable to consult an independent expert. They will be able to identify the alloys used, verify the hallmarks, and estimate the value of the jewel with precision.

Boucle d'oreille Trillion en diamant de synthèse et or recyclé exposé sur une éponge de mer rouge.

Common mistakes to avoid when buying a gold jewel


The Risk of Counterfeits

The market is saturated with gold plated jewelry, fake hallmarks, and alloys containing very little gold. To avoid unpleasant surprises, a few essential precautions should be taken.

Request a clear and detailed certificate of authenticity.

Choose a reputable jeweler, such as Mazarin, who works exclusively with traceable and carefully selected materials.
Avoid online purchases that lack solid guarantees or clear legal information.

Be cautious of prices that seem too low. An 18 carat gold jewel has real value, linked to the purity of the metal and the craftsmanship it requires.

Knowledge as Precious as the Jewel Itself

Recognizing an 18 carat gold jewel is not reserved for experts. A few simple guidelines are enough. Learn how to read a hallmark, understand what a carat represents, and adopt the right reflexes when making a purchase. By becoming informed about alloys and modern testing methods, anyone can make a confident and considered choice.

At Mazarin, we believe a jewel should never compromise between beauty, authenticity, and excellence. This is why all our creations, crafted in 18 carat recycled gold, embody a vision of luxury that is both refined and responsible, rooted in French jewelry tradition while looking firmly toward the future.