How to recognize 18 carat gold jewelry?

Gold has fascinated people for millennia. A symbol of wealth, power and beauty, it is today at the heart of French high jewelry. But how to recognize 18-carat gold jewelry? In the age of imitations and less than transparent practices, it is essential to know how to distinguish a piece of jewelry that is truly 18 carat gold, especially when you want to invest in a quality piece.

At Mazarin, all our creations are made exclusively in 18-carat recycled gold. Some are also set with diamonds, with a requirement for traceability and authenticity which is at the heart of our jewelry approach.

The history of 18 carat gold in France

In France, the jewelry tradition is closely linked to 18-carat gold. This standard, adopted in the 19th century, offers a perfect balance between the purity of the gold and the strength of the alloy. Pure gold, or 24 carats, being too malleable for the manufacture of durable jewelry, 18 carat gold (i.e. 75% pure gold) was established for its resistance and the richness of its shine.

From the Middle Ages, the kings of France, including Louis IX, already imposed the use of noble alloys for coins and royal ornaments. This demand for quality spans the centuries and continues today in French jewelry workshops, where 18-carat gold remains the reference standard.

It is in this heritage that Mazarin is part, whose name pays homage to Cardinal Jules Mazarin, great patron and esthete of the 17th century. Advisor to kings and passionate about the arts, he constituted one of the first large collections of diamonds in Europe, known as Mazarin diamonds. Reflecting this demanding and refined vision, the Mazarin house designs recycled gold jewelry 18 carats combining excellence, authenticity and character.

The advantages of 18 carat gold

18 carat gold is widely popular in jewelry for its many advantages:

Durability: Thanks to its 75% gold content, this alloy is more resistant to impact and wear than purer gold.

Aesthetics: It allows a wide variety of colors (yellow gold, white gold, rose gold, red gold, even white gold) depending on the metals with which it is mixed.

Safe bet: 18 carat gold maintains a high market value on the precious metals market.

Compliance with French standards: In France, a piece of jewelry is considered to be gold only if it is at least 18 carats.

Recycled gold jewelry, between requirement and conscience

At Mazarin, we have chosen to only work with 18-carat recycled gold. But what is recycled gold? It is gold already extracted from the earth, recovered from old jewelry or other objects, then melted and purified to regain its original quality. It has exactly the same properties as new gold.

This choice is not a compromise: it reflects our desire to preserve natural resources while guaranteeing the authenticity, durability and brilliance of each of our creations — whether it is a recycled gold ring or a recycled gold wedding ring, each piece tells a responsible story, crafted with exacting standards.

Discover our collections on our site, and explore jewelry designed to last, between conscience and excellence.

Guarantee marks

The most reliable way to recognize 18 carat gold jewelry is the hallmark. In France, all gold jewelry must bear two hallmarks:

The title hallmark, generally an eagle's head, the official symbol of 18 carat gold.

The maker's mark, specific to each jeweler or jewelry house.

These marks, often discreet, are struck by hand or laser. They guarantee the purity of the metal and are subject to strict control by French customs.

Color and appearance

A trained eye will also be able to recognize 18-carat gold jewelry by its color:

18k yellow gold has a warm, deep hue, neither too shiny nor dull.

Rose gold owes its color to a higher copper content.

White gold, mixed with palladium or nickel, is often rhodium-plated to enhance its shine.

Jewelry that is too light or too dark, or whose color changes over time, may be an indicator of a lower quality alloy.

What should a certificate of authenticity contain?

A certificate of authenticity is an essential document, especially when purchasing high-value jewelry. It must mention:

The type of precious metal (here, recycled 18-carat gold),

The gold content (75%),

Any stones (type, size, carat),

The signature of the jeweler or approved expert.

When to call an expert?

If you have any doubts about the authenticity of a piece of gold jewelry, or if you wish to have an heirloom appraised, it is recommended to consult an independent expert. The latter will be able to identify the alloys, check the hallmarks, and even estimate the value of the jewelry.